Wheel balancing, take 2 – 30 Jul 2016.

Having successfully balanced the wheels on The Fire Bike, I decided to go ahead and do the same for The Racing Rhino, my V7Sport. These weren’t balanced when the new tyres were fitted. A lot of what follows repeats stuff I’ve done before but I’ve got the time to set it out again!

I started with the front wheel which is the important one to balance. To get it off:

  • Put the bike on the centre stand.
  • Disconnect the front brake cables from the hubs by first loosening them at the brake lever end. This is to maintain the relative adjustment of each brake shoe.

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  • Slacken the wheel spindle nut and loosen the clamp bolts in the fork lowers.

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  • Jack up the bike under the sump so the front wheel is clear of the ground. I use the trolley jack I still have from my days of working on old cars.

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  • Remove the spindle nut and withdraw the spindle.
  • Lower the wheel to the ground complete with the brake hubs.
  • Make a note of which way round the wheel goes to maintain the direction of tyre rotation and to match the brake drums with their shoes.

The wheel and its spindle can now go in my home-made balancing stand.

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It was clear that the wheel did need some weights added so I gave the rim a clean then put it back in the stand. I marked the highest point of the rim and started to add weights with masking tape until the wheel was balanced. The wheel now stopped in a different place each time it was spun and would stay wherever it was put. It needed just 15g.

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The area the weights would be stuck to was cleaned with cellulose thinners and the weights fixed permanently. The rims on the V7Sport are Borrani Record “Cross”. This means they are more deeply valanced than those fitted to my V7 700 and means that there is room to stick the weights to the inside of the valanced part.

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The front wheel was refitted to the bike and the jack removed from under the engine.

Getting the back wheel out of the V7Sport is so much easier than doing the job on my loopframe V7. There are no panniers in the way and the rear mudguard hinges up so the wheel can be got out without the need to raise the bike or lean it on its side:

  • With the bike still on the centre stand.
  • Slacken and disconnect the brake cable from the brake hub.
  • Remove the brake torque arm.
  • Remove the wheel spindle nut.
  • Slacken the clamp bolt in the swing arm.
  • Undo the “thumb bolts” and raise the mudguard.

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  • Remove the wheel spindle while holding the wheel and brake plate in place against the drive box. Note that there is a thick spacer washer on the spindle¬† between the swing arm and brake hub.

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  • The wheel, together with the brake hub, can then be pulled off the drive splines on the bevel box, lowered to the ground and removed backward under the raised mudguard. Why aren’t more bikes fitted with hinged mudguards like this?

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The wheel was then cleaned and balanced in the same way as before. It took a lot of weights (as did the rear wheel on the V7 700).

I must have over-greased the drive splines on the wheel before. The grease had been flung around inside the hub on the drive side and some had found its way out between the wheel and the bevel box. I had begun to think that the big seal in the bevel box was failing again but, no it’s grease. It’s sticky and doesn’t smell like gear oil at all.

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I think the drive splines on the hub are showing some wear but are OK for now. I checked the spokes in this wheel, having had some loose ones in the past due to broken spoke nipples and couldn’t find any.

When it came to refitting the wheel, I cleaned the grease from the splines on the wheel and drive box then re-applied it but, more sparingly this time.

I haven’t added Oko sealant to the tyres on this bike yet ( as I did to The Fire Bike) but probably will do so soon.

5 Aug 2016 update: I have added the measured amount of Oko Puncture Safe to the tyres now.

  • Front 90/90-18 has 200ml.
  • Rear 100/90-18 has 225ml.

I went for a 10 mile test ride and got home after covering 80 miles.

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