Re-wiring, Part 8 (Testing) – 17 Dec 2015

With all the wiring now connected up I needed to check that it would work although I won’t be able to test the ignition or charging circuits until I can run the engine.

I fitted my trusty 12 year-old (yes, it’s at least 12 years old) Odyssey battery but, before hooking up the -ve terminal, I checked for battery drain with the ignition switch in the “off” position. It was zero, as it should be.

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I switched the ignition on and…

…nothing – zero, zip, zilch, nada.

I got the meter out and found there was power to the ignition switch but nothing came out of it to power the bike’s circuits. I thought the switch must be faulty so took it off, checked it again then dismantled it.

To get the switch out of its mounting 2 small screws have to come out. Then the key has to be turned to “off” and removed. This allows a sprung locating pin to be pushed in and the switch can be released.

On the bottom of the switch are 2 screws holding the electrical parts onto the back of the lock. Once these are out, the connector block and its cover can be removed.

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The other side of the connector block looks like this.

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Behind the main contacts you can see three short brass coloured strips. These are spring loaded and are the actual switches. In this state they all are making contact. i.e all the terminals are connected together.

Still on the body of the lock is this piece which has 3 pins. These push on the spring loaded switches to break contact.

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If you lift this plate off the other side is like this. The pins will easily drop out but I was lucky.

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This is the last bit fitted to the lock body.

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If you look at the cross in the middle you can see that it can only be fitted one way. It has a ramp for each pin to push it up and let it back down according to the position of the key. So far as I could see, there was nothing wrong with any of the parts. However, I noticed that the red “power in” wire was not connected as I would have expected.

I refitted the block with the pins and turned the key to see which pins were down in each position. This would show me which of the little switches should be closed. This is what I discovered.

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Transferring this information to the contact block tells me which of the 3 little switches is for each function. Remembering that this is the contact side of the block.

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All this meant that the brown and red wires were transposed!

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When put together again and retested the error was confirmed. Although sold to me as a V7Sport switch, may be it was really for something else or perhaps the wires were just mis-connected. Either way the problem was easily sorted. I didn’t replace the wiring but sleeved them in the correct colours and changed the wire terminals as the starter one needs to be a piggy-back type.

Once the switch was back in place the correct connections were made. I checked again for current drain at the battery (still zero) then switched the key to “run”. The 3 warning lights came on, as did the bulb I had put across the fuel tap connections. I tried the lights, horn, starter, brake lamp and switches. Everything works as it should.

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I’ll have to leave testing the function of the ignition and charging circuits for now. I’ve checked continuity and don’t expect to have any problems.

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