Yes, some but not all of the wiring has made it on to the bike.
The handlebar switch loom was already in place but not connected up to anything.
The charging loom was fitted next . This connects the alternator, rectifier and voltage regulator together. My only difficulty was getting the cables fitted to regulator and rectifier because my damaged wrist is a hindrance. Here are the cables at the alternator end. You can see that the various connections are labelled.
You can also see the “spare” grey wire tied up out of the way. This is ready for any future upgrade to the later high output alternator. Here’s the rectifier end of the wiring. Again the grey wire is insulated and tied up out of the way. The empty front connection is for the charge warning light.
These are the rectifier connections.
There’s no photo of the regulator connections as I couldn’t get a shot of them. It’s just a three pin connector which can’t be fitted the wrong way around.
The alternator cover was refitted with the “long grommet” in place to protect the wiring.
A wire to the under-seat light from the fuse box was fitted. It has a piggy-back connector at the fuse box end. An earth cable was also run from a mounting screw to the earth point I’ve fitted to the plastic inner mudguard.
Note to self – I need to invest in the necessary fuses!
The main loom was then returned to the bike.
At the front of the frame there are the two wires. The red (looks orange in the photo) is from the “Gen” lamp and goes to that empty front tag on the rectifier. The other is an earth, wire with a ring terminal, from the warning lights and instrument back lights. This goes to the earth point on the rectifier bracket.
There are a number of earths here.
- The new earth return circuit.
- From the warning lights and instrument back lights.
- From the regulator (brown).
- One from the switch loom for the headlamp etc.
The wires were plugged into the connector block mounted to the frame. At the same time the yellow wire from the switch loom was plugged in as well. You can also see that the wires from the ignition switch are fitted. The brown and blue ones have piggy-back terminals so that I’ll have somewhere to put the starter button connections when I get that far.
You can also see the six bullet connectors which join the main loom to the switch sub-loom. There always were a couple but now there are four more for the revised headlamp circuits. There was also a wire to the horns and one to the low oil pressure switch to connect.
Further back, the start relay and neutral switch wiring was fitted. You can’t see much of the neutral wire. It’s the green one down behind the starter solenoid.
The headlamp relay connector blocks were fitted to the loom. Wires were added to supply the current to the load side and to earth the switching side of the relays. The power cable was fitted with a piggy-back connector as the main cable from the battery needs to connect to the same fuse box terminal.
The wires to the warning lamps were fed up through the mounting plate and plugged in.
The bulb holders for the instruments were wired up and the speedo and tach fitted.
Back to the switch loom to connect up the remaining wires. These were the second connection for the horns and those on the back of the headlamp shell. There are four connection tags here with coloured plastic backing.
- Red for power to the pilot lamp.
- Black for power to the headlamp high beam.
- White is power to the headlamp dip beam.
- Blue is for earth.
None of these relate to the colours in the bikes’ wiring loom in any way. However, the photo below shows the original wiring on the inside of the headlamp. This does share the same coding.
That’s all for now. There are still a number of pieces of wiring left to make up and fit.
- From the main loom to the stop/tail lamp.
- From the main loom to the front brake light switch.
- From the main loom to the rear brake light switch.
- Ignition coil link wires.
- Wires from the ignition coils to the contact breakers.
Then I need to make up battery cables and spark plug wires.
By the way, those bright yellow cable ties are temporary. I’ve bought some silver/grey ones from the £1 shop!