Throttle and grips.
My cupboard of parts for Rhino is getting empty as I continue to fit more items to the bike. My little granddaughter has been most concerned about the tennis ball temporarily pushed on the left handlebar end. Now I’ve fitted the throttle and handlebar grips.
The grips are not the original type but have an octagonal profile and are the same as was fitted to the bike when I first got it 36 years ago! They were nice and squashy and I always regretted cutting them off in the early days. They’re by Tommaselli and are called “Silky” grips.
The throttle isn’t the original type either but has been on the bike all the time I’ve had it. I think the original was by Magura but was often changed to a Tommaselli Daytona throttle like mine. They were standard on some later Guzzi models.
I fitted the throttle cables to the carburetors then fed them up through the rubber boot for the twist grip and onto the drum. You can then get the drum into the halves of the throttle twist grip and put it together around the handlebar. The cable boot is held in place by trapping part of it between the two halves before screwing them together.
Just doing up the throttle halves won’t clamp it to the handlebar. You have to tighten the grub screw in the underside of the throttle into the bar.
The knurled screw with the spring behind it is a damper. When screwed in it prevents the throttle slamming shut when you let go of it – very useful when making right-hand hand signals. I don’t have indicators fitted to this bike.
The upper adjusting screw with a lock nut is to limit the travel of the throttle cables. The idea is to adjust it so that the throttle can’t continue to pull on the cables once they have reached the end of their travel. On the V7Sport you just need to make sure it’s not preventing the carbs from being fully opened.
I think I should mention something about routing the throttle cables. Originally Moto Guzzi routed both cables down the right hand side of the steering head and under the tank. However, the best way is to send one cable down each side of the steering head so they then cross over the top frame tube to the carburetor on the other side. All this is to try and get the route which provides the lightest throttle action. You can (or could) get lighter springs for the carb slides but I’ve never felt the need. Even with my dodgy wrist I still think I’ll be OK.
I use some self-amalgamating tape to hold the cables in place.
The instrument cluster.
Ever since the parts came back from powder-coating I have agonised about whether to try and expose the lettering on the front of the warning light housing. Originally these were painted satin black with the raised lettering left as plain aluminium. In the end I went ahead and am pleased I did. I masked as much of the housing as I could before removing the powder-coat with fine wet and dry paper used wet.
Once satisfied, I carefully applied the decal.
It was then time to fit the speedometer and tachometer cables which both fit in the same way. I did the speedometer first.
The cables come with the instrument connector ready fitted to the outer cable. The drive end of the cable has the plastic removed from its outer casing and the fixings are loose. The rubber “boot” and knurled lock-ring are slid on and then the olive is put on the stripped part of the outer cable.
Start with the drive end and seat the outer cable in the drive with the olive against the top of it. Twiddle the inner cable till it slips into the drive. The knurled ring is then tightened down squashing the olive onto the exposed cable which is then held in place by the lock-ring. The rubber boot can then be pushed into place.
The other end can then be fitted to the speedometer head. Sometimes you have to jiggle things a little to get the inner cable to fit in.
I find that, if a cable is going to break, it’s close to the drive end and seems to be because water gets in somehow. As a belt-and-braces measure I wrap a little self-amalgamating tape around the top of the cable boot.
When I fitted the tachometer cable I just couldn’t get it to fit properly and found out that it was a bit long. Here I’ve routed it under the lower fork yoke.
You can’t easily shorten the cable because the inner is pressed into the square drive shape and I think you need special tools for this. I measured the inner cable I had been sent as 590mm. I checked Gutsibits website and found they list two cables for the V7Sport of 588 and 548mm inner length so I ordered the shorter one.