The first of two posts today! I’ve done the wheel bearings, fitted the exhaust system and a few other bits and pieces to Rhino, the V7Sport.
Rear wheel bearings.
At the end of the last post I said that the wheels would have to come off to have the bearings checked and to be cleaned. That time soon came. I started with the back wheel which is fitted with taper roller bearings. Before removing the wheel I wobbled it about to see if there was any play in the bearings. There wasn’t. To get at the bearings the oil seals have to come out first.
Knock the left hand spacer out of the wheel. You can just get at it using a hammer and a punch. It doesn’t take much to move it and it comes out with the inner bearing race. On the inside of the bearing there will also be 2 shims which mustn’t be lost. They are what are used to adjust the bearings. The central spacer may also drop out or it may stay stuck to the right hand bearing as it was in my case. Once all the left hand bearing parts are put somewhere safe the right hand set just lift out. Make sure the bearings can’t get swapped. This is what comes out of the hub.
From left to right;
- Oil seal.
- Left hand (brake side) spacer.
- Left hand inner bearing race.
- Two adjustment shims.
- Central bearing spacer.
- Right hand (bevel box side) bearing and spacer together.
- Right hand oil seal.
As it happens, the right hand bearing race and spacer seemed pretty well stuck together so I left them like that. I cleaned out all the old grease from the bearings races with petrol, dried them and examined them closely. I could find nothing wrong with them or the outer races in the hub. The old oil seals didn’t survive being levered from the hub so I put everything together for safe keeping while I waited for the replacements.
When the new seals arrived I packed the bearings with grease and put them back exactly where they had come from. I greased the new seals and pushed them in.
As I say, the clearance of the bearings is adjusted using 2 shims behind the left bearing. These are available in 0.1mm increments from 1 to 1.5 mm plus a 2mm shim. I measured mine and they are 1mm and 2mm so 3mm in all. What you’re supposed to do is to assemble everything without the oil seals and, using spacers of some sort on the wheel spindle, adjust the clearance with the shims. I didn’t do this as I could find no play with the wheel mounted on the bike prior to dismantling. Now that everything is back together and the wheel fitted, I can feel just the very slightest amount of play in the bearings. To reduce the clearance by 0.1mm I would need to replace my 1 and 2mm shims with a 1.4 and 1.5mm shim.
Front wheel bearings.
The front wheel on the V7Sport uses 2 ball bearing races. I had intended to bash them out, clean, re-grease and then refit them. However, I left them alone as they were a shielded, sealed type. I fitted them myself years ago but don’t remember choosing shielded ones. I did pull out the oil seals and replaced them.
They had begun to break up probably to do with lack of lubrication and I suppose they are no longer really necessary. That’s bits of seal on the face of the bearing.
The bits of seal were removed and the new ones fitted. The lips were greased as were the centres of the brake plates which run in them.
The brake plates were dropped in again and the wheel remounted.
While I was waiting for those oil seals to arrive I fitted the exhaust system. I had just trial fitted it before. First, I fitted the header pipes to the cylinder heads. I have these updated fittings which incorporate a locking ring. In the past I have had problems with one ring constantly coming loose and the other one getting over-tightened. The lock rings should prevent this happening. It’s especially important they don’t come loose as then the pipe rattles in the cylinder head and damages the thread. I’m told this can be very expensive to fix.
I didn’t wind them down tight at this stage. I put together the “P” clips which hold the header pipes to the frame. These also help prevent the pipes working loose. I managed to get some stainless clips and made up the necessary spacers. I found that I had to carefully bend and compress them to get the bolt holes to line up so they would fit.
This was also left loose. The rest of the exhaust system fitting was straightforward. I tightened everything up working from the cylinder heads back wards.
I also fitted a number of other parts.
The side stand. This isn’t quite right. I think my mounting bracket is wrong which could be why the stand doesn’t fold up clear of the exhaust. I think I may have bent this on purpose at some time so that the bike was more stable on the stand. I haven’t got the stop for the stand welded to the frame anyway so I think I’ll probably make something up to catch it before it clanks into the exhaust.
I bolted on the starter motor. It’s a later pre-engaged type. I have the original one but these are famous for damaging the starter ring gear. These, although significantly heavier, are an improvement.
Clearance to the neutral switch terminal is just ok.
I fitted the forward part of the mudguard under the seat using new rubber washers.
and then trial fitted the seat after making up the hinge bushes.
The seat doesn’t look too bad and is original. I’m not sure if I want to buy a replacement cover. I’ll wait till everything else is done and see if it shows the rest of the bike up.