Fitted for new shoes – 8 May 2015.

Steering damper.

The V7Sport has an hydraulic damper fitted as standard with a control knob on the top of the steering head. In the “off” position it’s not truly off but has a lower effect. Turn the knob right to the “on” position and you can feel its influence more. I’ve never felt the need to use the stiffer setting as Tonti framed Guzzis are very stable. These dampers wear out quickly and become ineffective but, never the less, I bought a new one as they are cheap anyway.

There was one thing that I had to do before anything else. In the hour after fitting the handlebars I must have banged my head on the left one at least three times.


The steering damper control mechanism consists of control rod with a knob at the top and a spring under it. It runs in plastic/nylon bushes in the top and bottom of the steering stem. The bottom of the rod has a square portion to fit a chromed control plate which acts as a cam to change the length of stroke of the damper. The parts are secured by a nylock nut and washer underneath.


The control knob on top of the forks is a bit weathered but serviceable.


Each end of the steering damper itself contains rubber bushes. It comes with metal bushes to fit inside these but they appeared to be completely the wrong size. The internal hole diameter, as supplied, was about 9.5mm but the damper is secured by 6mm bolts at each end. This could be correct and perhaps originally there was a further nylon sleeve inside. The answer was to make up new metal bushes with a suitable 6mm internal diameter. I had some stainless steel bar of the right size and thought I would be able to make them myself. Well, no. My two attempts were a total failure. Despite my best efforts at getting everything set up vertically in my ancient hand operated bench drill I couldn’t drill straight!


Clutching my piece of bar, I went to see my friend “Bunny” who has a lathe and he made the parts – no problem. I had to fit the damper the opposite way round to that shown in my parts book so that I could get the necessary clearance between the damper and the frame bracket and between the damper and the top mounting bolt for the Right hand crashbar.



 Mounting the front brake shoes.

I had the brake shoes relined last year. The next job was to get them mounted on their brake plates. I had wondered about how to do this as the brake return springs are strong. Then, only a week ago Hans showed a way to do it using a cheap tool in his blog here. It’s in Norwegian but I can understand him using the translation add-on to my web browser. I got hold of the same tool and, like him, used bits of wood to adapt it to the job of spreading the brake shoes. It was originally designed to push back the pistons in a disk brake caliper.


The front brake on a Guzzi V7Sport is a double twin-leading-shoe drum brake and consists of a twin-leading-shoe setup on each side of the hub. So, there are two similar front brake assemblies to build. The rechromed brake operating cams were inserted then the misused tool worked surprisingly well. Thanks for the idea Hans. Here is the first set of front brake shoes located and ready for the tool to be removed.


Once set in place a new circlip is fitted on the pivot pin.


Then the job was repeated on the other set of shoes.

Each complete brake plate was offered up to its corresponding drum after the worst of the surface rust had been rubbed off. They fitted pretty well straight away with only a little bit of scuffing. Here the remaining rust in the drum came in handy as it left a mark on the shoe where it rubbed.


I carefully filed off just the rust mark, removing as little material as possible, so the brake plates fitted. It really was a tiny amount.

The rear brake shoes.

The rear brake is another twin-leading-shoe job. In fact, it’s basically the same as the front brake on my V7 700. On this brake the pivot points for the shoes are different and are fixed to the brake plate with a nut and washer on the outside. These were fitted along with the brake operating cams. Interestingly, there were washers between these cams and the brake plate when it was dismantled. There are none shown in the parts book but I found the brakes didn’t go together properly unless I used them. Here’s what I mean.


The shoes were fitted using the tool as before.



The shoes were tapped until they looked about centred then offered up to the wheel. I didn’t need to file anything this time.

Wheels on (temporarily).

I had to fit the wheels even though I knew they’ve got to come off again to be cleaned and to have the bearings checked.





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