Just over a week ago I took the V7 loop to my local test centre to check the headlamp aim. The new Wipac Quadoptic headlamp fitted with Osram Night Breaker bulbs is nice and bright but I found that on main beam there seemed to be a hole in the centre of its spread of light. The aim was a bit high. I was offered the spanners to sort it there and then but said I’d go home and loosen things there first as I thought the winker stalks holding the fairing on to the headlamp mounts might be difficult to move. The tape measure was brought out and I was told that, on dip beam, the horizontal “cut off line” should be 85cm from the ground 2 metres in front of the bike. This week I got round to putting up a board with an 85cm line on it and marks in 2cm increments above and below. I then marked a line 2m from the board and another at right angles to it. I set the bike up along the line and with the headlamp 2m from my piece of board. It seems like a lot of work but it took less than 20 minutes.
I couldn’t sit on the bike and do the adjustments so I needed to hold it upright on my scissor jack. When sat on the bike the cut off line was 93cm high on the wall. When I put it on the jack it settled at 92cm so I figured that, if I adjusted it to 84cm it would work out right when I was sitting on the bike. Well, that was the theory.
To release the headlight I had to first slacken off the indicator stalks. They have a square fixing at the base which needed a thin 15mm spanner to get at. I just cracked them undone but still managed to take some paint off the fairing on one side. This side was ok.
Then these fixings on the side of the headlamp had to be loosened.
I had been concerned that the fairing would prevent the lamp from being adjusted but my fears were unfounded and I got it set to 84cm easily. Once everything was tightened the moment of truth arrived and I took the bike off the jack and sat astride it. Spot on 85cm! If only everything was as easy.
I found that some Fiat Racing Red paint I had in an aerosol was a good match. I sprayed some in the cap and let it dry for a few minutes then used that to touch in the damage caused by the spanner.
The sound is an unwanted one. Ever since I tuned the engine, there has been a bit of a screech from the front of the engine when the revs reach the point when I’m just about to change gear. Before the tune-up this didn’t happen but, of course, that’s probably because things were so far out that it wouldn’t rev freely. Initially I thought the belt might be too tight and slipping after I removed some extra “adjusting” washers from the drive pulley. So, I put them back – just the same. As it’s possible to accelerate through the squeal till things are quiet again I still suspect the belt. It sometimes does it when I change down as well but, thankfully, it’s definitely not the clutch. Of course, I can’t reproduce the noise while the bike is in the garage! I took the cover off and sprayed it with “Belt Slip” in the hope that this would cure it and looked closely at the generator to see if it had started to become loose on its mountings but it all seems secure.
Last Friday night was the meeting of The Old Cranks MCC to which I belong. The 80Km (50mile) ride proved that my new waterproofs are waterproof and suggests that the headlight is now set correctly. It’s really good to ride behind. However the squeal is still there. I’ve been out again today. It’s not getting any worse. My options are;
- Replace the drive belt of unknown provenence with the genuine article.
- Remove and strip the generator to check/replace the front bearing.
Naturally, I’ll try option “1” first but, at some point, the generator will have to come off as I intend to replace the generator bracket mounting bolts with studs and nuts as recommended by more seasoned owners. I’d hoped to leave this till next winter though.