Light and sound – 17 May 2015.


Just over a week ago I took the V7 loop to my local test centre to check the headlamp aim. The new Wipac Quadoptic headlamp fitted with Osram Night Breaker bulbs is nice and bright but I found that on main beam there seemed to be a hole in the centre of its spread of light. The aim was a bit high. I was offered the spanners to sort it there and then but said I’d go home and loosen things there first as I thought the winker stalks holding the fairing on to the headlamp mounts might be difficult to move. The tape measure was brought out and I was told that, on dip beam, the horizontal “cut off line” should be 85cm from the ground 2 metres in front of the bike. This week I got round to putting up a board with an 85cm line on it and marks in 2cm increments above and below. I then marked a line 2m from the board and another at right angles to it. I set the bike up along the line and with the headlamp 2m from my piece of board. It seems like a lot of work but it took less than 20 minutes.



I couldn’t sit on the bike and do the adjustments so I needed to hold it upright on my scissor jack. When sat on the bike the cut off line was 93cm high on the wall. When I put it on the jack it settled at 92cm so I figured that, if I adjusted it to 84cm it would work out right when I was sitting on the bike. Well, that was the theory.

To release the headlight I had to first slacken off the indicator stalks. They have a square fixing at the base which needed a thin 15mm spanner to get at. I just cracked them undone but still managed to take some paint off the fairing on one side. This side was ok.


Then these fixings on the side of the headlamp had to be loosened.


I had been concerned that the fairing would prevent the lamp from being adjusted but my fears were unfounded and I got it set to 84cm easily. Once everything was tightened the moment of truth arrived and I took the bike off the jack and sat astride it. Spot on 85cm! If only everything was as easy.

I found that some Fiat Racing Red paint I had in an aerosol was a good match. I sprayed some in the cap and let it dry for a few minutes then used that to touch in the damage caused by the spanner.


The sound is an unwanted one. Ever since I tuned the engine, there has been a bit of a screech from the front of the engine when the revs reach the point when I’m just about to change gear. Before the tune-up this didn’t happen but, of course, that’s probably because things were so far out that it wouldn’t rev freely. Initially I thought the belt might be too tight and slipping after I removed some extra “adjusting” washers from the drive pulley. So, I put them back – just the same. As it’s possible to accelerate through the squeal till things are quiet again I still suspect the belt. It sometimes does it when I change down as well but, thankfully, it’s definitely not the clutch. Of course, I can’t reproduce the noise while the bike is in the garage! I took the cover off and sprayed it with “Belt Slip” in the hope that this would cure it and looked closely at the generator to see if it had started to become loose on its mountings but it all seems secure.

Test ride.

Last Friday night was the meeting of The Old Cranks MCC to which I belong. The 80Km (50mile) ride proved that my new waterproofs are waterproof and suggests that the headlight is now set correctly. It’s really good to ride behind. However the squeal is still there. I’ve been out again today. It’s not getting any worse. My options are;

  1. Replace the drive belt of unknown provenence with the genuine article.
  2. Remove and strip the generator to check/replace the front bearing.

Naturally, I’ll try option “1” first but, at some point, the generator will have to come off as I intend to replace the generator bracket mounting bolts with studs and nuts as recommended by more seasoned owners. I’d hoped to leave this till next winter though.


A whole lot of stuff – 17 May 2015.

The first of two posts today! I’ve done the wheel bearings, fitted the exhaust system and a few other bits and pieces to Rhino, the V7Sport.

Rear wheel bearings.

At the end of the last post I said that the wheels would have to come off to have the bearings checked and to be cleaned. That time soon came. I started with the back wheel which is fitted with taper roller bearings. Before removing the wheel I wobbled it about to see if there was any play in the bearings. There wasn’t. To get at the bearings the oil seals have to come out first.


Knock the left hand spacer out of the wheel. You can just get at it using a hammer and a punch. It doesn’t take much to move it and it comes out with the inner bearing race. On the inside of the bearing there will also be 2 shims which mustn’t be lost. They are what are used to adjust the bearings. The central spacer may also drop out or it may stay stuck to the right hand bearing as it was in my case. Once all the left hand bearing parts are put somewhere safe the right hand set just lift out. Make sure the bearings can’t get swapped. This is what comes out of the hub.


From left to right;

  • Oil seal.
  • Left hand (brake side) spacer.
  • Left hand inner bearing race.
  • Two adjustment shims.
  • Central bearing spacer.
  • Right hand (bevel box side) bearing and spacer together.
  • Right hand oil seal.

As it happens, the right hand bearing race and spacer seemed pretty well stuck together so I left them like that. I cleaned out all the old grease from the bearings races with petrol, dried them and examined them closely. I could find nothing wrong with them or the outer races in the hub. The old oil seals didn’t survive being levered from the hub so I put everything together for safe keeping while I waited for the replacements.


When the new seals arrived I packed the bearings with grease and put them back exactly where they had come from. I greased the new seals and pushed them in.

As I say, the clearance of the bearings is adjusted using 2 shims behind the left bearing. These are available in 0.1mm increments from 1 to 1.5 mm plus a 2mm shim. I measured mine and they are 1mm and 2mm so 3mm in all. What you’re supposed to do is to assemble everything without the oil seals and, using spacers of some sort on the wheel spindle, adjust the clearance with the shims. I didn’t do this as I could find no play with the wheel mounted on the bike prior to dismantling. Now that everything is back together and the wheel fitted, I can feel just the very slightest amount of play in the bearings. To reduce the clearance by 0.1mm I would need to replace my 1 and 2mm shims with a 1.4 and 1.5mm shim.

Front wheel bearings.

The front wheel on the V7Sport uses 2 ball bearing races. I had intended to bash them out, clean, re-grease and then refit them. However, I left them alone as they were a shielded, sealed type. I fitted them myself years ago but don’t remember choosing shielded ones. I did pull out the oil seals and replaced them.


They had begun to break up probably to do with lack of lubrication and I suppose they are no longer really necessary. That’s bits of seal on the face of the bearing.


The bits of seal were removed and the new ones fitted. The lips were greased as were the centres of the brake plates which run in them.


The brake plates were dropped in again and the wheel remounted.

Exhaust system.

While I was waiting for those oil seals to arrive I fitted the exhaust system. I had just trial fitted it before. First, I fitted the header pipes to the cylinder heads. I have these updated fittings which incorporate a locking ring. In the past I have had problems with one ring constantly coming loose and the other one getting over-tightened. The lock rings should prevent this happening. It’s especially important they don’t come loose as then the pipe rattles in the cylinder head and damages the thread. I’m told this can be very expensive to fix.


I didn’t wind them down tight at this stage. I put together the “P” clips which hold the header pipes to the frame. These also help prevent the pipes working loose. I managed to get some stainless clips and made up the necessary spacers. I found that I had to carefully bend and compress them to get the bolt holes to line up so they would fit.



This was also left loose. The rest of the exhaust system fitting was straightforward. I tightened everything up working from the cylinder heads back wards.




Other stuff.

I also fitted a number of other parts.

The side stand. This isn’t quite right. I think my mounting bracket is wrong which could be why the stand doesn’t fold up clear of the exhaust. I think I may have bent this on purpose at some time so that the bike was more stable on the stand. I haven’t got the stop for the stand welded to the frame anyway so I think I’ll probably make something up to catch it before it clanks into the exhaust.



I bolted on the starter motor. It’s a later pre-engaged type. I have the original one but these are famous for damaging the starter ring gear. These, although significantly heavier, are an improvement.


Clearance to the neutral switch terminal is just ok.


I fitted the forward part of the mudguard under the seat using new rubber washers.


and then trial fitted the seat after making up the hinge bushes.


The seat doesn’t look too bad and is original. I’m not sure if I want to buy a replacement cover. I’ll wait till everything else is done and see if it shows the rest of the bike up.

Fitted for new shoes – 8 May 2015.

Steering damper.

The V7Sport has an hydraulic damper fitted as standard with a control knob on the top of the steering head. In the “off” position it’s not truly off but has a lower effect. Turn the knob right to the “on” position and you can feel its influence more. I’ve never felt the need to use the stiffer setting as Tonti framed Guzzis are very stable. These dampers wear out quickly and become ineffective but, never the less, I bought a new one as they are cheap anyway.

There was one thing that I had to do before anything else. In the hour after fitting the handlebars I must have banged my head on the left one at least three times.


The steering damper control mechanism consists of control rod with a knob at the top and a spring under it. It runs in plastic/nylon bushes in the top and bottom of the steering stem. The bottom of the rod has a square portion to fit a chromed control plate which acts as a cam to change the length of stroke of the damper. The parts are secured by a nylock nut and washer underneath.


The control knob on top of the forks is a bit weathered but serviceable.


Each end of the steering damper itself contains rubber bushes. It comes with metal bushes to fit inside these but they appeared to be completely the wrong size. The internal hole diameter, as supplied, was about 9.5mm but the damper is secured by 6mm bolts at each end. This could be correct and perhaps originally there was a further nylon sleeve inside. The answer was to make up new metal bushes with a suitable 6mm internal diameter. I had some stainless steel bar of the right size and thought I would be able to make them myself. Well, no. My two attempts were a total failure. Despite my best efforts at getting everything set up vertically in my ancient hand operated bench drill I couldn’t drill straight!


Clutching my piece of bar, I went to see my friend “Bunny” who has a lathe and he made the parts – no problem. I had to fit the damper the opposite way round to that shown in my parts book so that I could get the necessary clearance between the damper and the frame bracket and between the damper and the top mounting bolt for the Right hand crashbar.



 Mounting the front brake shoes.

I had the brake shoes relined last year. The next job was to get them mounted on their brake plates. I had wondered about how to do this as the brake return springs are strong. Then, only a week ago Hans showed a way to do it using a cheap tool in his blog here. It’s in Norwegian but I can understand him using the translation add-on to my web browser. I got hold of the same tool and, like him, used bits of wood to adapt it to the job of spreading the brake shoes. It was originally designed to push back the pistons in a disk brake caliper.


The front brake on a Guzzi V7Sport is a double twin-leading-shoe drum brake and consists of a twin-leading-shoe setup on each side of the hub. So, there are two similar front brake assemblies to build. The rechromed brake operating cams were inserted then the misused tool worked surprisingly well. Thanks for the idea Hans. Here is the first set of front brake shoes located and ready for the tool to be removed.


Once set in place a new circlip is fitted on the pivot pin.


Then the job was repeated on the other set of shoes.

Each complete brake plate was offered up to its corresponding drum after the worst of the surface rust had been rubbed off. They fitted pretty well straight away with only a little bit of scuffing. Here the remaining rust in the drum came in handy as it left a mark on the shoe where it rubbed.


I carefully filed off just the rust mark, removing as little material as possible, so the brake plates fitted. It really was a tiny amount.

The rear brake shoes.

The rear brake is another twin-leading-shoe job. In fact, it’s basically the same as the front brake on my V7 700. On this brake the pivot points for the shoes are different and are fixed to the brake plate with a nut and washer on the outside. These were fitted along with the brake operating cams. Interestingly, there were washers between these cams and the brake plate when it was dismantled. There are none shown in the parts book but I found the brakes didn’t go together properly unless I used them. Here’s what I mean.


The shoes were fitted using the tool as before.



The shoes were tapped until they looked about centred then offered up to the wheel. I didn’t need to file anything this time.

Wheels on (temporarily).

I had to fit the wheels even though I knew they’ve got to come off again to be cleaned and to have the bearings checked.