More jobs on the V7 loop – 14 Feb 2015.

I’m still working on the V7 700 to get ready for the spring and so, work on Rhino is on hold for the time being.

A replacement throttle.

Following my accident, and the resulting damage to my wrist, I had been concerned that I might not be able to use a twistgrip. Thankfully this was not the case. However, the original throttle was too “slow” in that it needed to be turned about 120 degrees to open it. There’s no way I can get near that but I did find I could turn the V7Sport’s throttle almost all the way (about 90 degrees). So I bought this Domino throttle shown below the original jobby.



I then needed a replacement upper throttle cable as I needed much more free play in the cable. I had the replacement made to drawing by Speedy Cables who did a good job. It all works as it should and is not too heavy. It actually feels like it’s lighter than my V7Sport throttle was. This is probably because the cables are new and nicely oiled.

Oil pressure switch.

When I bought this bike I noticed the switch didn’t work. This is a really common annoyance on Guzzis. They tend to (but not always) fail in the “off” position so that the charge warning light just stays off when you switch the bike on. Over the years I’ve replaced loads for just this reason. A little while ago I was told that they can be revived by being given a squirt of brake cleaner and a tap on the bench if necessary. I had my doubts but decided to give it a go.

First I had to get the thing out. There was no way this could happen with the dynamo cover in place and that came off easily. Then I was faced with this.


There’s no space to get a socket on the switch and no room to attack it with a spanner. So I removed the split pin from the end of the bottom dynamo bracket that you can see in the photo in the hope that I could push it through a little and get clearance for a deep socket. Nope, too tight! I had to undo the dynamo top clamp slightly. I counted the number of “flats” as I turned the bolt so that it could go back as it was. Eight “flats” was enough and the pivot could be slid a little way to give clearance and the switch was soon out.

I tested the switch on the bench. There was no continuity. It all looked nice and clean but, I gave it a squirt up inside with brake cleaner then tested it again. It appears to have worked – contact! Well I’ll be…      I gave it another spray for good measure then let it dry out properly.

Update: This was not a success. When I ran the engine all was ok, but the oil light stayed out when I switched off and I had to buy a new sender anyway.

Refitting was, as they say in the manuals, the reverse of the dismantling procedure. Pivot knocked back, split pin inserted and top bolt re-tightened the eight “flats”.


The dynamo cover still needs to go back on.

The headlight.

When bought, the bike had a lamp which would dip to the right, continental style, if it weren’t for the piece of tape stuck on the lens. Here in the UK we drive on the left so the lamp needs to dip to the left. Although riding with the bit of tape on the glass is legal, I wanted to correct this. The existing lamp was also an older type which had been fitted with a halogen conversion bulb and I wanted to update it to a more modern H4 unit. I bought a Cibie unit but couldn’t use it because it was too deep and knocked the fuses out of the fuseblock at the back of the headlamp shell. I tried the Lucas one from the V7Sport and that was the same. I sought advice on the UK Guzzi forums and was told that a Wipac Quadoptic unit would fit. Very helpfully “Dave P” at took his headlamp to bits and measured what he had. Based on this I bought a Wipac unit and, sure enough, it fits. This photo shows the various sizes of the lamps measured from the face that contacts the headlamp rim to the tip of the bulb terminals.


Still to do.

I’ve made a start on the wiring.

  • Indicators. Need to be redone from scratch. I’m using an ancient switch that was on Rhino when I got him and fitting a repeater lamp. The bleeper thing will not be reused.
  • Relays will be fitted to main and dip beam circuits to protect the switch contacts and improve light out put.
  • Fit a high beam indicator.
  • Wiring to the stop/tail light needs to be reinstalled as there are no grommets where the cables pass through the mudguard.
  • Fit a battery condition lamp. I’ve bought an indicator from Sparkbright.

I need to change the O-ring on the clutch body at the back of the gearbox.

I still need to decide if I need to drill a hole in the fuel filler cap to act as a breather. It all seems a bit strange.

Fit a filter to the fuel line from the tap I modified to get a reserve fuel capacity.

Check over and adjust everything!


3 thoughts on “More jobs on the V7 loop – 14 Feb 2015.

  1. Hi John.I’m enjoying your blog.The restoration of the V7Sport is looking really good,it’s going to be a corker!
    I just thought I’d mention a worthwhile tiny mod’ on the loop in case you are unaware of it or it has not already been done.
    It is not uncommon for the dynamo cradle to come loose and produce a grinding noise as the pulley wheel contacts the top of the timing cover.Guzzi fixed the cradle to the crankcase using two M8 set screws and they do come undone.There’s a lot of mass in that dynamo and the fastenings are hardly up to the job.However,a couple of high tensile M8 studs (I used exhaust mounting studs from a car) locktited into position followed by washers and all metal lock nuts and the problem is solved.
    Forgive me if I’m teaching you to suck eggs here,I just thought it could save you some hassle later on.My dynamo came loose during an Easter run and gave my riding companions ammunition to take the piss.
    Cheers Dave P.

    1. Thanks Dave, I’m learning about loopframes as I go along. I’d heard about the dynamo mount issue but not how to fix it! I need to take a look to see what’s there. Alledgedly the dynamo has been rebuilt but not by a Guzzi specialist who would be aware of the problem.

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