I’ve been contacted by a reader who said “I was looking at parts of your blog and noticed that on your V7 Sport pics that the clutch friction plates look to be in the wrong way round”. So I looked at the photos here on the blog and those I’ve not posted and he’s right. What was I doing? Clutch plates have a flat side and one where the central boss sticks out. That side should face the gearbox. I’ve got the flat side facing back. This means that, when my arm’s better, things will have to be dismantled so that the gearbox can come off and the plates be swapped round. Anyway, it’s better to find out now than when it’s all complete and the clutch won’t work.
This is wrong!
(I’ll put a warning on the original post).
To reflect that this blog has become about more than just restoring Rhino, I’ve updated my “home” and “about” pages and the site title. I will have to do some work soon on the Tonti info page to include the American market bike frame numbers. I’m also compiling a list of English language magazine articles about the big block Tonti 750s and the loopframe bikes. I’ll add this to the site somehow and post links or copies of what I’ve got.
Well, I’ve still not been able to do any more to Rhino, the V7Sport. I’m pretty frustrated that my wrist hasn’t got back more than about 50% movement so far despite my and the physiotherapists’ best efforts. Maybe I’m expecting too much too soon. The accident was three months ago today. There’s no way I can ride as I can’t grip and turn a twistgrip far enough. I give it a go most days as an extra physio exercise!
I’m restricted to fairly light work so I’ve taken a look at the wiring on the V7 700. I think I’ve got 8 wiring diagrams for loopframe Guzzis but it’s none of them and it turns out to be a combination of 2. So I’ve made a drawing and now I understand what does what. The original wiring is all good but, whoever added the turn indicators was no expert, to say the least. When I took the headlamp off I found the flasher relay carefully covered in bubble wrap so that it couldn’t short anything out as it bounces about.
The wires to the switch on the bars is mains flex and the wiring to the rear indicators looks like speaker cable. The connections inside the headlamp shell are made by just twisting the cables together.
I think I’ll wire the winkers from scratch and put the flasher relay in the battery compartment as there’s not really enough room in the headlamp. I’ll also probably change the indicator switch so that the right hand mirror can clamp on a straight bit of the bars. At the moment it’s not very secure.
In addition to the wiring, I’ve re-glued the edge of the seat cover.
As the fuel tank was off, I looked at the taps and found that both will drain the tank to the bottom. So, there’s no reserve setting. It looks like this was normal. I’ll see if there is any way I can fit a standpipe to one of the taps to provide a “normal” position then use the other one for reserve. Otherwise I know I’ll get stuck.
I’ve also changed the rear light lens for one that lets the light through! The original had gone pale so was painted on the inside to make it more red. Worryingly there’s a receipt for work done by a motorcycle repair shop here in the UK which says they “repaired tail light lens” and “took for m.o.t.”
Finally, today I said goodbye to the S3. The new owner has already booked the frame in for straightening so hopefully it can then be rebuilt. I do hope so.