I’ve fitted the footrests and foot controls for the rear brake and gear change. Rhino has the brake on the left and the gear change on the right. It’s “one up and four down” as well. This will test my brain when the bike is eventually back on the road. I had a similar problem when I changed to the S3 after my accident. That, of course, is “normal” by today’s standards. Gears are “one down and four up” on the left. The dead opposite!
The gear change is operated via a cross shaft just in front of the rear wheel which runs in nylon bushes fitted inside tubes welded to each of the lower frame rails. These are unique to V7Sports with a right hand change. The parts on this shaft are a bit confusing as those fitted to my bike are not the same/in the same place as shown in the parts books. However the system has always worked faultlessly so I’m going to fit them back in the same places they came from. The brake pedal fits on the outside of the support tube on the left hand frame rail on another nylon bush. I referred to the drawing I made when I took the lot to bits and laid the parts out on the bench.
From left to right we have; splined clamp for the end of the shaft; nylon top-hat bush to support the cross shaft in the tube; brake pedal; larger top-hat bush for the brake pedal; cross shaft with curve to clear the rear wheel; mounted on the shaft is a nylon split block spacer with a rubber sleeve around it; then the gear change lever mounted on the shaft with the rose joint linkage above and the lever for the back of the gearbox; at the other end is another nylon top-hat bush to support that end of the cross shaft and then the gear change pedal. Here’s a closer look at the left hand brake side.
First I held the centre stand down with a block of wood between it and final drive box to give me a bit of working space. Then the cross shaft is fed through the tube on the right hand side then back into the left one as far as it will go. The following picture shows the support tube welded to the frame rail.
This one on the right had been worn very thin over the years and had a hole in its side. Replacement rails are unobtainable so a repair was made by a local engineering firm. This isn’t that easy as the tube isn’t welded on “square”. Originally I asked for a sleeve to be fitted over the damaged tube so there was some more metal to wear. However, when I went to collect it the work hadn’t been done. It was felt that the tube should be replaced to make a proper job. It was agreed a jig would be made to fit inside the existing support tube, welded at the correct angle and clamped to the frame rail. Then the old tube cut off and a new one welded into place and the jig removed. It took quite some time for the work to be done amongst the demands for repairs to bits of farm machinery and fishing boats but they did a good job. The cost – £20.
The nylon bush then fits inside. I greased it although I’m never too sure whether to do so or not. On the one hand these are moving parts but, on the other, the grease can attract dirt and cause wear.
I had to pull the bush out again as there’s a rubber sleeve over the outside of the support tube. God knows why, but there was one before so there will be again.
On the other side, a larger nylon bush is fitted over the support tube and the brake lever pushed on. I had to remove some of the powdercoat first and again this was greased.
Next I fitted the lever to the back of the gearbox. The lever on a V7Sport is straight unlike later bikes which are “cranked”.
Then that lever is joined to the one on the cross shaft with a rose-jointed link. This is a much better arrangement than that fitted to later bikes but it’s easy to make something up. I’ve done it for the S3.
The other bush can go in to support the shaft and then back round the other side to put the gear lever (complete with new rubber) on.
With the shaft pushed as far over to the left as possible the splined clamp is fitted to the end of the shaft and everything is locked in place.
My clamp is a bit too wide. The original broke a very long time ago and, although it still could be made to work in two pieces, I changed it. The proper part wasn’t available but a short lever for the brake linkages had the same splines and was cut down to fit as you could still get those back then.
I was on a roll now so fitted the rubbers to the footrests. All four fold up on the Sport. There are two types so you have to pick the correct ones or they’ll fold down instead of up! They fit to their brackets with a fine thread bolt with a wavy washer under the head. Once adjusted they’re locked in place with a half nut.
Views of completed footrest set-up. Footrests on the Sport are slightly rear set compared to the 750S3 and T3 etc (by about an inch and a half?).
I’m getting to the stage where I can’t do much more until the chrome comes back from the platers. I’ve been painting more small parts. The breather box was really nasty – oily but still rusty. Also I’ve had black fingers from cleaning the alloy brake plates. I could have had them vapour blasted but I had the time and they look OK. Next for cleaning are the wheels. The hubs will not be fun. Oh, I need to repaint the headlamp brackets and fork yokes (what our American cousins call triple trees) in black wrinkle finish. I love using this stuff.