You get nothing for months then two posts on the same day. This is basically how to change a Guzzi clutch on a big block motor.
I’ve mentioned before somewhere that I hadn’t used the correct 10.9 high tensile bolts to mount the massive Guzzi flywheel on the end of the crank. With “softer” bolts it is apparently not unknown for these to shear. I don’t fancy this much as I’ll be sittin’ atop this heavy spinning lump.
Before I got started I changed the rear crankshaft oil seal as I couldn’t remember if I did it before and it’s one of those if-you-can-see-it-change-it items. I got it started in place then pulled it in the rest of the way using a threaded rod in the back end of the crank and my biggest (50mm I think) socket. I’ve never used this socket from a cheapo set, which I bought to get the size to remove a car wheel bearing, for anything else. It just happens to be chamfered enough on the inside to clear the end of the crankshaft.
Next I locked the flywheel with my trusty dexion tool (more of this later) and fitted the proper strength bolts with new schnorr washers.
I refitted the clutch springs and the pressure plate in its correct alignment then winched it down with my home made tool arrangement. It’s that (M12x1.25 I think) threaded rod in the back of the crank again. This time I use the clutch hub from the gearbox, a piece from a car clutch tool that fits inside that, a big washer and a nut like this
This allows me to get the driven plates and the intermediate plate in without it hanging up on anything and getting bent. ‘Tis a well known way of doing things without the factory tools.
Before I could finish off, I decided to take a file to the teeth on the starter ring gear. The V7Sport was produced with a lightweight(ish) starter motor without a solenoid. It flings the pinion forward into mesh with the ring gear and is well known for causing damage to its teeth. Rhino’s had fairly minor damage despite having had the original destructive starter motor right up till now. A small part of each tooth has gone and there were some raised burrs. A happy hour was spent filing and listening to 6 Music while I tidied things up a bit. Hopefully this will be the end of the wear to the teeth as I have bought a second hand pre-engaged Bosch starter to use from now on.
So the ring gear is back on (new schnorr washers again) and the clutch is pretty much complete. You can see my trusty dexion tool again. The first time I did a Guzzi clutch I cut and filed a profile so that, when it’s mounted on two studs with various large nuts as spacers, its teeth engage with those on the ring gear and everything is locked so you can do the bolts up.
The tool can come out and the centre for the clutch goes into the pressure plate.
December 2014 update; A warning – I have realised that I have got the clutch driven plates in back to front. The central boss sticks out from one side of the plates and should face back toward the gearbox. I’ve got the flat side showing. I’ll have to go in here again and swap the plates around!
The remaining job was to put the clutch hub back on the gearbox. I got a new hub as the old one was showing some pretty bad wear to the splines. V7Sports have no cush drive in the back wheel and are hard on their transmissions in general with shocks transferred all the way to the clutch components. Here’s the old and the new. I don’t need to label them!
If/when the time comes for a clutch replacement I’ll change everything for the updated “deep splined” clutch components but, for now, I’ll stay with the old style as I have new clutch plates etc anyway.
The clutch hub is held by a peg nut and lock washer. To do this up you can bash it round with a punch, use the special Guzzi tool or do like I did many years ago and make something from a 30mm socket. Rough and ready but it has worked for me several times.
Here is the hub back on and the tab of the lock washer bent up into a slot.
I’ll be back soon!