V7 tyre fitting, part 2 – 16 Nov 2017.

And so to the front wheel. I repositioned the support and tie-downs which always takes me a bit of time. I’ve seen photos of bikes which have taken a tumble from benches like mine.

Once I was happy, I removed part of the bench wheel clamp, jacked up the front end and set about removing the wheel.

It’s easy enough. I have to remove the mount I made for the push bike speedo sensor first. Then disconnect the brake cable and start by removing it from the handlebar lever first. The other end can then be removed from the lever on the hub. The spindle/axle nut is undone and the clamp bolts at the bottom of the forks are slackened off. The big old screwdriver is then employed to wiggle the wheel spindle out. Usually the hub cover plate drops out with a clang at this point as I forget it’ll do this. I had to raise the front of the bike a bit further before the wheel would drop out because there wasn’t quite enough room for the brake plate to clear its locating plate on the fork leg.

Once it was out I went through the same performance as I did the other day to change the tyre. The old tyre was difficult. The new tyre was easy. Here is the newly mounted tyre next to the old ‘un.

The size difference is quite noticeable even though the widths are much the same. The 90% aspect ratio of the old tyre means its diameter is actually 20mm less than the new one.

I balanced the wheel which only needed 10g. I reused a real lead weight using some good double-sided tape. I would like to use spoke weights rather than these stick-on ones. I’ve seen some for sale but want to get proper lead ones if I can.

As they say in the manuals, “refitting is the reverse sequence to removal” (but you might swear in different places). Here’s the new tyre fitted.

I fitted the wheel clamp back to the bench

then turned my attention to another little job. Back in the summer, the loop securing the front brake cable to the mudguard broke and I just taped the loose bit up and out of the way. I needed to fabricate a new one which was surprisingly difficult. It will do until I can find something better. You can see in this photo where the cable has rubbed the paint of the edge of the mudguard.

There was now the thorny issue of tyre pressures. Originally Moto Guzzi specified 21psi in the front and 25 psi at the back for solo use with the rear to be increased to 28psi when carrying a pillion. The handbook also says to add about 3psi to the pressures if doing constant high speeds.

I was running the previous tyres at higher pressures (32/36psi). I’d been told this was necessary with more modern tyres. In fact, some said this was still on the low side. The issue I now have is that the maximum pressure for the new Mitas tyres is 33psi. The old Michelin rear tyre had the same load rating but carried it at 41psi.

Even so, the original “book” pressures still seem very low to me so, in the absence of anything else, I’ve gone with 24/28psi as a starting point – the “book” high speed/motorway pressures. I’ll see how it goes and might contact Mitas UK to see if they have any thoughts.

Here’s the fire bike ready for a run to scrub the tyres a bit. It was dry if a little cold.

It was only a dry test but, so far so good. I can notice a slight change in that the steering seems heavier at very low speeds, say under 10mph. Once rolling traction and grip seem more than adequate and the handling just as it was before. I doubt I’ll have to wait long for the chance to test wet weather performance!

Oh, one thing. The increase in front tyre size has made all the difference when putting the bike on the centre stand. I’d been finding this hard going to the extent that I avoided it. Now I think about it, the side stand didn’t ground when I took the bike off the bench like it had when I rolled it up there.

The annoying squeak from the front suspension is back but I know what the cause is. It’s the front brake cable rubbing as it passes through the support loop and grommet!

Once back in the garage there was one last thing. I recalibrated the push-bike speedo for the new tyre size and fitted a new magnet. I’d knocked the old one off during the tyre change. It got a bit messy as I had to cut the tube of Stixall open to find the last useable drop!

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V7 tyre fitting, part 1 – 13 Nov 2017.

I got my tyres after some unnecessary shenanigans. I was let down by the first suppler who accepted my money then contacted me a day later to say the tyres weren’t in stock so they were going to give me a credit. I checked their website and, lo and behold, the tyres were still listed but had gone up in price. I considered this to be sharp practice and told them so. It meant that I could actually get the tyres elsewhere for less than their new price so, that’s what I did and insisted on a refund. I wasn’t bothered by a 4-day delivery time. It took 2 days for the original company’s accounts department to process the refund which then took several days to reach my account. To top it off they asked for my feedback on resolving the issue before I’d even got my money back. I told them what I thought again. Oh, and I promised I’d give them a mention here so, Pneus Online you get a definite thumbs down from me.

Now I’ve got that off my chest let’s get back to the task in hand. As the rear tyre was pretty near bald I decided to tackle that one first. Here’s my tyre changing kit. Tyre levers, bead buddy, valve core remover, rim protectors, tyre lubricant and powder to stop the tube sticking to the tyre. The thing with the yellow string is a home made tool that screws into the valve stem to pull it through the rim. I’ll buy the proper job when I see one. Also on hand was the garden spade. More of that later.

I’m not going through the process of changing a tyre as there are plenty of helpful videos on you tube. This time I’m going to try and get the rear wheel out without having to remove the exhaust. I’m lucky in having a lifting bench with a trap door which should allow the rear wheel to be dropped clear. I managed to get the bike secure on the bench without having to call for assistance.

Ground clearance was an issue when I wheeled the bike onto the bench. The “washer” welded to the side stand caught on the bench top as it went over the crest.

The one thing I did take off was the left hand pannier to give me access to the brake rod etc.

You can see here that, if I want to drop the wheel completely through the hole in the workbench, the ramp will get in the way.

That ramp was soon off.

Now to actually get that wheel off. I’m sure I’ve described this before but never mind. First thing is to disconnect the brake pull rod from the brake hub by undoing the knurled adjuster.

Then the brake torque arm has to be disconnected as well by removing this nut. The fixing at the other end to the swing arm has to be slackened as well before it will come off and that end is difficult to get at with a non-flexible wrist like mine.

I then remove the spindle/axle securing nut before undoing the clamp bolt on the swing arm shown here. I use a big old screwdriver to get everything moving.

Before pulling the spindle out I removed the plate from the bench but put a bit of timber across the gap until I was ready just in case.

The spindle now comes out but I hold the wheel and brake hub against the drive box while turning the brake plate so that no nuts can catch when I pull the wheel toward me off the splines to lower it away from the bike.

I came across a problem at this point. I found that the complete wheel assembly was too heavy for me to manage and, having come this far, I had to come up with a solution quick smart. I decided that, with that bit of wood holding the tyre up, I would lower the bench halfway so that I could drop the wheel through the trapdoor and against the frame of the bench. I was able to take the brake hub off before jacking the bench back up a little at a time until the wheel was free. Where there’s a will…

The actual changing of the tyre was interesting! It was an absolute fight to get the old Michelin tyre off. Breaking the beads was easy enough. I did it the way I always have using the garden spade and jumping on it! After that I spent ages. I could get the first bead over the rim but the second one didn’t want to play. In the end I took both beads off so the wheel fell down inside the tyre. I then had to rip the wheel out from the middle which took all my strength. However I did it without causing any damage to the rim or me. I wasn’t pleased to find that the new tube I had given the tyre fitter (I wasn’t able to do the job myself following my broken wrist) had 2 patches on it. He’d obviously had some issues then! I cleaned up the rim and fitted my new tyre. How easy was that? Only one lever was needed to get the first bead on and two for the second one. There was no heavy levering needed and it was safe to dispense with the rim protectors. Perhaps it’s because these are tube type tyres and the old ones were tubeless but used with tubes. I don’t know but, this is how I remember it used to be.

I got my home made tyre balancer out and was pleased to find I only needed 30g of weights. The old tyre had a lot more than that.

Here are old and new. The new tyre looks a bit wider but isn’t. It’s just because that one’s mounted on the wheel.

While the brake plate was off I checked the linings. They are still good (4mm). I had begun to wonder because I had run out of adjustment on the brake pull rod.

Much to my surprise getting the wheel and brake plate back on the bike was easy enough. I was able to stand behind the bike, reach through the bench and lift the wheel up so I could shove that bit of wood under again. Maybe I could use this technique to get the wheel out next time. So with the wheel back on the drive splines the wheel spindle was put back in place. The brake torque arm needs to go back on before tightening the spindle nut, then the clamp bolt on the swing arm.

As I’d run out of brake adjustment I decide to move the lever on the brake plate. I marked it’s current position before removing.

Then I refitted it turned one spline.

The brake rod was then refitted but to do this I had to lever the arm round a bit first so that I could get everything properly located.

Now I was able to adjust the brake to give about 10mm free play at the pedal and with the bike back together I reassembled my bench.

Front wheel next time. That’ll be easier, right?

The hunt for tyres (again) – 1 Nov 2017

It’s been a strange sort of year for me and, although I’ve managed to attend my usual camping and rally weekends throughout the summer, it’s been more through good luck than anything else. Toward the end of the summer family business has meant me traveling from one side of the UK to the other every week or so in the car. This actually meant that I didn’t have time to arrange an MOT in time and the Fire Bike had to be taken off the road for a month. When I did eventually take it in for the test it did pass but, only just! I was given two “advisories”. One for each of the tyres. To be fair the rear tyre was so worn that it could have been failed while the front tyre was just about ok.

I was disappointed that both tyres were so bad. My records show that I’ve done 9732 km on this set of tyres (6082 miles). I realise that many bikes wear their tyres out as quickly if not more quickly than this. Now, the V7 700 is a heavy old beast but it’s hardly powerful and is ridden pretty conservatively. I decided that this time I would try a more traditional tyre in the original 4.00-18 size front and back. Previously I had gone with more modern sticky tyres and a low profile size on the front (see here) when I settled on Michelin Pilot Activs. I already knew that there aren’t many 4 inch front tyres available in the UK so, when I made my list it was a short one.

I cast around for opinions. Some thought that I was just wanting tyres that look in keeping with 45 year-old a bike and there would be a trade off with performance. As it happens, all the tyres available bar one (Heidenau K36) are of an older block style. I wanted feedback on other people’s experiences with these tyres on a loopframe Guzzi. Those who used them said they were fine. This is much what I would have expected as it’s what the bike was designed to run on.

In the end I decided to go with a pair of Mitas H06 tyres. There were a number of reasons. Firstly they were cheap! However, the feedback I got from people running these tyres, albeit on different models of bike and in different sizes, was always positive. I figured that, if they didn’t last well, I wouldn’t mind at the low price and I was assured that I wouldn’t be taking my life in my hands riding on them. We’ll see!

Modified trailer wiring – 10 May 2017.

Here’s another “late” post!

I have been having some trouble with the electrical connection between The Fire Bike and my trailer. I’ve changed both the plug on the trailer and the socket on the bike but can’t get things to stay connected properly. The connection is too loose causing me to lose lights on the trailer. I decided that I would do away with the trailer socket on the bike and use the 5-way superseal connector I had fitted for the top box lights. Recently this has become pretty much redundant.

I traced the wiring on the trailer to check out what does what before wiring in the other half of the superseal connector. Although all 7 wires of the trailer plug were wired up one wasn’t connected to anything and two others were joined together so only one of them was needed.

Original socket;

  1. Yellow “L” – LH indicator.
  2. Blue “54g” – Fog lamp (not used).
  3. White “31” – Earth/ground.
  4. Green “R” – RH indicator.
  5. Brown “58R” – RH tail but connected to both tail lamps.
  6. Red “54” – Brake lights.
  7. Black “58L” – LH tail but connected to both tail lamps.

I therefore cut back and insulated the ends of the blue and black cables as they won’t be reused. It was then easy to fit the other half of the superseal connector to the trailer, or you would have thought so! I made a note of the numbered connections to the half already on the bike then wired the trailer the same, but that’s just too easy. The two halves are each numbered 1 to 5 alright, but in reverse order to each other! Once that was sorted all worked as it should.

Here are the old and new plugs with a blanked off socket to keep the weather out when it’s disconnected.

And connected up. When not in use the cable end is clipped up to the indicator bracket as it was before. In use it’s clipped to the tow bracket.

I’ve used the trailer twice since making this modification with complete success.

Experimental valve clearances – 7 May 2017.

Well, I’ve finally sorted out all my old posts following the Photobucket debacle. I’ve done what I always should have and hosted my blog photos here in WordPress.

As I indicated in my last post, I have got a bit behind with things which is why this is the first of a couple or so posts with a date well in the past!

Anyway, down to business.

The valve gear on The Racing Rhino, my V7Sport, is really noisy. I know that Guzzi engines are always bad in this respect but I can’t see why there still needs to be so much noisy clearance even when the engine is really hot. However, it is important that there is always some clearance as there will be damage caused if a valve is held open due to a lack of clearance. I have friends who have run very small clearances but I am loath to do this and am naturally cautious.

The first thing to do was to see what clearances I actually have. According to the book they should be 0.25mm both for inlet and exhaust. I removed the alternator cover so I could turn the engine using the rotor bolt.

I started with the right hand cylinder so, having removed the spark plugs I turned the engine over until the D mark was in the window of the clutch housing.

and removbed the rocker cover letting it hang on the breather hose.

I measured the valve clearances using a “go/no go” method with my feeler gauges. Clearances were close to 0.25mm as they should be.

After some research I decided to use “Roper spec” – clearances recommended by Pete Roper as safe. These are 5thou inlet and 7thou exhaust or 0.13 and 0.18mm.

Right hand side adjusted, I did the same on the left ( with the S mark in the window).

I went for a ride and the valve gear was marginally quieter. There was still a clatter with the engine really hot so I feel reassured that I won’t be burning any valves with these settings. I don’t think I’ll risk going any further though.

No more Photobucket. What a shower! – 30 Jun 2017.

Well folks, Photobucket have changed their terms and conditions without giving me any notice. In the past I have put up with the clunky, interrupted service from them because they allow 3rd party image hosting for free. I received an email today to say that, to continue it will cost me $400 a year for the top price package. None of their other options allow any 3rd party hosting for blogs, forum posts etc.

I won’t be coughing up the cash for this given that traffic to my blog is pretty low. I have downloaded all my photos from Photobucket so none will be lost and, although I see photos are showing in the blog posts at the moment, this won’t last as they will soon cut me off.

Their action has caused a lot of anger in the blog community with some people not even being able to access their own photos or download them.

The upshot of all this? It will take me some time to rearrange the hosting for my photos and to edit all my old posts. Until then you may be met with a lot of broken photo links. Bear with me.

The wider implication is that, when searching the web for information, the photos will be gone. Photobucket has been used to host photos on forums and websites for many, many years. Not everyone will go back to update all their posts.

Other stuff

I’ve got behind and have a number of outstanding posts to write. I recently had a further operation on my wrist and was intending to get up to date while I was unable to ride or work on the bikes. However, I found typing at the computer difficult as well! I’m mended now and have even been away on the bike but, you know how it is…

Fuel starvation? – 4 May 2017.

It’s taken me a while to get around to writing this post. Other stuff has been going on!

On a couple of occasions recently The Fire Bike has come to a halt without any prior warning. I’d be riding normally and the bike would appear to run out of fuel. It would be just as if I needed to switch over to “reserve”. However there was plenty of fuel in the tank. The first time it happened, I had refuelled and the bike faded about 40 miles later. I pulled over suspecting a vacuum in the tank and opened the filler cap but there was no sound of air rushing in. The bike then ran without any problem for the remaining 50 miles or so home. On the second occasion I had ridden the 20 miles to Aberystwyth seafront where there was a MAG gathering. After an hour or so I left to call at some shops nearby then set off for home. After about 5 or 6 miles the bike ran out of steam again. Again I opened the fuel filler but heard nothing. The bike restarted and I carried on the rest of the way home as if nothing had happened.

I hate it when things like this happen and the fault can’t be recreated in the workshop.

General opinion amongst fellow Guzzisti supported my initial thoughts that the problem was caused by fuel starvation with a second possibility that the ignition coil was beginning to break down when hot. The brief stop being long enough for it to recover. I ordered a replacement coil, just in case, but decided to check the fuel system from tank to carbs and the ignition wiring.

Before doing that, I thought I would just see if I could get the fuel supply to the carbs to fail. I made sure there was a decent amount of fuel in the tank and that the cap was done up tight. I then disconnected the fuel line from the running tap (as opposed to reserve) and added a short hose into my fuel can. I turned the fuel on and watched as it all ran out! I had hoped that the flow would reduce until it stopped or sucked air up the pipe proving that the filler cap was blocked. However it all ran out unimpeded.

The next step was remove the tank so I could make my checks but, first the seat needs to come off.

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Now the tank itself can be removed.

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  • Electrical connections in the battery compartment. Especially earths. All good.
  • Connections at the coil. These were fine.
  • Connections to ignition switch. All good.
  • I rattled the key in the ignition switch but couldn’t make it fail.
  • Fuel lines. All clear.
  • Fuel taps and filters. Fine.
  • Fuel filters at carbs. Clear.

I went back to the fuel tank which was sitting on my bench in the sun. When I opened the filler cap I quietly swore as I heard it exhale! If the expansion caused by the tank getting warm can’t be vented then neither can air get in to replace the fuel as it’s used up. So, after going around the houses, I was back at my first suspicion that the fuel cap was the problem. This is despite the fact that the bike has run without any problem for the last 2 years.

I had always suspected the cap because, way back, I had puzzled about how it was vented. There were two small holes outside the area covered by the rubber seal but no corresponding vent hole inside the seal that I could find. I drilled a 2mm hole in the inner layer of the fuel cap where I would have expected to find a vent hole. In this picture you can see my newly drilled hole and the outer two holes to the left and right of the rubber seal.

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To test it out, I squirted some WD40 into the hole I had drilled and saw it come out of the other two. I then washed it out in petrol and refitted it.

Before I refitted the tank I straightened out the rear mounting flanges. They had been crushed a bit. I had bought a stainless steel rear tank mounting bolt a year or so back so this was fitted as well. The old one was pretty nasty.

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I haven’t got a replacement front bolt yet. This is a stepped bolt which prevents it being over-tightened and could be something to make on the little old lathe I’ve bought. It’s just about set up now.

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Anyway, Everything went back together and a few days later I managed to complete a 55 mile test ride without any sign of trouble. Time will tell if I’ve really solved the issue.

I never did fit the replacement for what is probably a 45-year old ignition coil. It arrived damaged and was returned but I haven’t bought another. I wouldn’t have fitted it anyway until I was sure it wasn’t a fuel issue.